How to Repair a Damaged Skin Barrier
Retinoids, vitamin c, acids, peels. The beauty world is awash with ways to refresh, renew and rejuvenate our skin. But how do we know if we’ve over done it and what should we do if we have?
The good news is, it’s pretty easy to tell if you have damaged your skin barrier. If your skin is feeling irritated and uncomfortable, think itchy, red, sore, scaly or inflamed; or if you feel a burning sensation when applying a nonactive product, these are all telltale signs your barrier has been compromised. Whats more a comprised skin barrier can also lead to acne, accelerate ageing and cause atopic skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. Oh and incase you didn’t already know, the face masks aren’t helping.
Yup that’s right, while they may be helping to curb the spread of covid, the constant friction from wearing a facemask is only contributing to the damage of our skin barrier. It is also the cause of the now popular term, maskne.
So now we know how to spot it, how can we repair it? Firstly we need to understand what the skin barrier is and why its important. Our skin is composed of several different layers and your skin barrier is the outermost one, and basically acts like a protective shield to all the other layers of skin. Its job is to keep bad things like pollutants and irritants out, and lock the good things, such as hydration, in.
In fact keeping water in, is at the top of your skin barriers to do list. It’s what keeps your skin plump, bouncy and youthful. A loss of water will not only leave your skin looking dry and dehydrated, it is one of the key causes conditions such as eczema.
Another way of looking at the skin barrier, is to think of it as a bricks and mortar structure. The bricks are the skin cells, the motor is the lipids and proteins. When in tack they keep the water in the irritants out. But when a crack appears, from activities such as excess cleansing, over exfoliation or using too many strong ingredients, your skin is stripped of its natural oils (lipids) and moisture is lost.
It’s not only about what we do on the outside that can impair our skin barrier. Internal factors like stress, hormones and even our diet can have an adverse effect on our barrier. Thankfully reversing the damage is a pretty straightforward process. And it all starts stripping your skincare (not your skin) right back.
This means putting away the actives, that’s your retinol, vitamin c, Aha’s and bha’s, and instead focusing on products that are going to soothe and restore.
Go for rich, nourishing even balmy textures that will help to calm your skin and look for words such as soothing, nourishing and hydrating. Niacinamide, hyaluronic acids, ceramides, glycerine and squalene are all great skin-replenishing ingredients that will allow your skin to heal, while also locking in essential moisture that has been lost. Remember, the key is to keep it simple and avoid any kind of exfoliation at all costs.
When the time finally comes to reintroduce your actives, the advice is to take it slowly. Try introducing a product one one at a time and access how your skin reacts. If it is tolerating it well, then continue using and introduce your next product.
Read on to discover our ‘go to’ skin barrier repairing products.
CULTURED
Biome One Serum £55
Created by the funder of Ren skincare, Cultured is powered by microbiome science. Treating your skin as an ecosystem to tackle the source of each skin concern, rather than just the symptoms, its aim is to help skin help itself. Gentle and soothing on even the most reactive skin, Biome One Serum has firmly secured its position amongst our beauty shelf must haves.
EMBRYOLISSE
Lait-Crème Sensitive £23.10
If you haven’t heard of this cult French classic its time to take not. Crafted with out fragrance, this lightweight multi-use cream is jam packed with Vitamins and Fatty Acids for long-lasting moisture, while also encouraging a shield against harsh external aggressors.
ADVANCE NUTRITION
The ideal supplement solution for dry and dehydrated skin, including itchy, flaky, tight and uncomfortable skin, Moisture IQ provides multi-layered skin hydration to support the skin barrier, for skin that is smooth, hydrated, supple and radiant.
UBUNA
Powered by an unique blend of Ostrich Egg Extract, Cherry Blossom Extract and Japanese Rice Bran, Ubuna Beauty's hydrating gel cream absorbs instantly to quench, calm and cool your skin.
ENVIRON
Ideal for those with reactive skin, Environ Colostrum Gel contains bovine colostrum to soothe sensitive and inflamed skin, while bolstering the skins immunity and aiding in the production of collagen and elastin.
Dr David Jack
Formulated to soothe sensitivity and pacify outbreaks that result from a compromised skin barrier, Dr Jack’s Blue Dry Skin Peel, contains a nourishing blend of Vitamin B5 and Azelaic acid as well as Hyaluronic acid, to visibly plump and hydrate the skin, while reducing inflamtion. Use weekly for best results.
PIETRO SIMONE
Pietro Simone’s multi-skilled serum infused 4-dimensional hyaluronic moisturising system also features an advanced probiotic compound to restore the skin’s instinctive defences, regulates the microbiota pathways, soothes skin irritation, strengthens the skin’s barrier and significantly improves moisture retention.
CREATURE OF HABIT
This gentle cleansing balm, specially formulated to turn from oil to milk on contact with water, removes dirt, oil, and makeup without leaving that tight, drying feeling and compromising the skins natural acid mantle.
HONEST BEAUTY
Hydro Gel Cream £24
Fuelled with two different types of hyaluronic acid, this cooling humectant moisturiser that has an almost watery like texture to it, pulls moisture into skin and locks it there.
